Here is the complete itinerary of our trip to Peru and Bolivia, which included Machu Picchu, Lake Titicaca and La Paz.

May 14, 2009 (LA)

• Departed Los Angeles at 2.20am (TACA)
• Arrived at Lima International Airport at 3pm
• Overnight at Pay Purix Backpackers Hostal; picked-up from airport. Checked in, walked to store about a mile away for food. Took local bus back.

May 15, 2009 (Lima, Cusco, Ollant & Aguas Calientes)

• Arrived at airport for Cusco departure at 5.30am. Flight was delayed until 9:15 due to fog.
• Departed for Cusco around 9:30am; Arrived at 10.30am (LAN)
• Things to do in Cusco:
  1. Took bags to Hostal Amaru and dropped them off

Everyone who visits Machu Picchu will encounter Ollantaytambo, but many will probably miss it. Ollantaytambo is most famous as being the end of the road between Cusco and Machu Picchu, making it the closest town to Machu Picchu where you can catch the train. When we booked our trip, we assumed Ollantaytambo was simply a jump off point to Machu Picchu and planned only to stop there for enough time to transfer from our bus or taxi to the train to Aguas Calientes. Luckily for us, we arrived a few hours earlier than expected and were able to see this wonderful town. Of all the places in Peru we wished we had a bit more time, Ollantaytambo tops the list.

Ollantaytambo town square.

When you look at photos of Machu Picchu you often see a large steep lump of granite in the background. At a glance, it just looks like a rock that perhaps only rock climbers could reach the top of. However, that rock is actually Huayna Picchu (or Wayna Picchu) meaning "Young Peak" in Quechua is a sacred mountain for the Incas. In fact, even though you cannot see it in photos, there are ancient terraces on the face of it and even a few buildings. And yes, that is amazing and even when you see it you still can't believe that someone could accomplish it. Oh, and did I mention how steep it is? Did I mention that there is a trail that appears to go vertically right up the side? Well, there is, and that trail is how you climb Huayna Picchu from the ruins and Machu Picchu.

Huayna Picchu with Machu Picchu in foreground.

How do you enjoy a town that is really little more than a tourist stop? Keep looking up. If you want a great place to stay a few nights near Machu Piccu, Aguas Calientes really isn't it, you are much better off in Ollantaytambo, a surprisingly amazing town.

My travel companion and I arrived in Aguas Calientes Peru at about 11pm via the 20:35 Backpacker train from Ollantaytambo. The train stops right in the center of town on the main street, which is actually the train tracks. We got off the train, walked about 50 feet and saw our hostal,the Hostal Machu Piccu.