When you look at photos of Machu Picchu you often see a large steep lump of granite in the background. At a glance, it just looks like a rock that perhaps only rock climbers could reach the top of. However, that rock is actually Huayna Picchu (or Wayna Picchu) meaning "Young Peak" in Quechua is a sacred mountain for the Incas. In fact, even though you cannot see it in photos, there are ancient terraces on the face of it and even a few buildings. And yes, that is amazing and even when you see it you still can't believe that someone could accomplish it. Oh, and did I mention how steep it is? Did I mention that there is a trail that appears to go vertically right up the side? Well, there is, and that trail is how you climb Huayna Picchu from the ruins and Machu Picchu.

Huayna Picchu with Machu Picchu in foreground.

Figuring out how to climb huayna picchu was a journey in itself, but once we were there it turned out to be really straightforward. Here is what we learned as of May 2009.

• The most important thing to know is that only 500 people are allowed to climb the mountain each day. These 500 are split into two groups, the first group is allowed to start climbing at 7am, the second at 10am. Nobody is allowed to start the climb after 1pm.
• If you want to climb, you need to get there early enough to be in that first 500. We arrived at Machu Picchu around 6:00am and went straight to the huayna picchu gate, which is located at the far end of the compound from the entrance near the Sacred Rock. We waited for about 30 minutes in line and were then asked if we wanted to start the climb now or wait until 10, we opted to climb in the early group and got started.
• There is no special ticket to buy in order to climb huayna picchu, you can do it with your regular Machu Picchu ticket, you just have to be there early.
• You aren't supposed to take any plastic water bottles or food with you. It is okay to take canteens though and many people were eating, just PACK IT OUT.

Standing in line at the gate to Huayna Picchu at 6:30am.

When we started the hike we couldn't even see huayna picchu, it was completely covered in clouds. At first I was worried that because we left so early we would get to the top and not be able to see Machu Picchu through the clouds, but that wasn't an issue. Actually, going in the morning was amazing. Not only did we get to wander up the trail amidst the drifting fog, but we were surrounded by the sound of the waking birds. I have never been so much at peace while at the same time exhausting myself physically.

If you walk straight up the mountain without stopping and enjoying yourself or taking little breaks than you can reach the summit in about 1:15-1:30. However, I strongly advise against that. Not only will you be missing out on everything to see along the way, and not paying attention to how absolutely amazing the trail itself is (it was built by Incas after all), but you will be putting yourself and others in danger. As easy as it sometimes seems to go up the trail quickly, it is very easy to slip and one wrong step could mean 2000 meters straight down into the Urubamba river. Even if you don't die, being stuck up there with a twisted ankle or broken leg wouldn't be much fun either. We spent a good amount of time just trying to figure out how any injured person would get down. Just a few days after we left, someone did fall and die.

A typical stretch of trail along the first half of the climb. It is steeper than it looks!

After about 45 minutes you will reach a set of amazing terraces and, unless you are not paying attention, will wonder how on earth anyone could have built something like this at the top of such a high and steep slope. At this point you will also admire the incredibly steep stairs coming down at you and be grateful that you don't have to walk up them because the trail goes to the right. However, you will soon be holding your vomit when you find out that is how you are coming down.

After you turn to the right you start to get giddy as you the trail just keeps getting better. First you go up some stairs and then make your way through a tunnel.

A very low tunnel on the trail.

Then, just outside the tunnel you see the Isnu, a 3-tiered structure that makes an amazing lookout over Machu Picchu. Take a look at the hanging stairs that lead to the top of it.

Some of the amazing stairs you will get to climb.

At this point you are nearly at the top, just a few more minutes of amazing stairs and you find yourself at a pile a rocks. Climb up and around that and you are at the peak. From here you can relax, or if it's busy, don't fret, just make your way around the other side, over the big granite slab that if you slide on you'll die and find yourself one of the many perches overlooking the valley below and Machu Picchu. Anywhere you are, you will gasp and be amazed. Being at the top of this mountain is truly one of the most memorable experiences you will ever have. Stop, breathe, remember every sound and site, and of course, remind yourself over and over how much better you have it than all of the tourists below who only get to look up at where you are and will never know what they are missing.

One perspective of Machu Picchu and environs from the top of Huayna Picchu. That curvy road is the bus route from Aguas Calientes.

After a while of enjoying everything and taking a lot of photos, you start to make your way down. On the way you will go past a few buildings, and then you will see the staircase you saw on the way up. Don't blow chunks, it will be okay. Just try not to think about the lack of medical attention you will receive if you slip or how many bodies you will take with you as you slide down the hill.

The stairs down from the top leading past the terraces. Believe it or not, they are actually steeper then they look in this photo.

After the stairs you just make your way down the same way you came up, but don't rush. Not only is Machu Picchu not going anywhere, but slipping on the way down could be more dangerous than the way up. If you go up the in the morning your trip down will include passing the late morning groups.

About 45 minutes after you leave the top you should arrive back at the gate to Machu Picchu, ending your experience. Here you should stop a moment and take it in, after all, that was it and hopefully you really feel it!

Credits
Photos by Azza Basarudin